Category Archives: Travels

Dead Men and Professional Massages

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Today is my 3rd day in Hanoi and I think it takes about that much time to start getting used to the maze-like streets and crazy traffic (and crazy driving) to start appreciating the city. So far the highlight of Hanoi has been to see Uncle Ho encased in his age-less glass box. The are super hyper at the masoleum, you can't laugh or talk as you approach it and you have to give them all cameras so no taking pictures. Apparently if they catch you taking a picture they make you sign a document declaring that you disrespected Uncle Ho.
The tour has officially ended and I have a couple of days extra before I head to HongKong. I'm actually really glad for the extra days, I'm would not have thought it but I'm actually pretty tired from the past 20 days of traveling and Hanoi is a good place for some R+R. Tomorrow I plan to see the Ho Chi Minh musem which was closed today – should be a good laugh.
After we left Hoi An we went to Hue for one day. Hue is the old captial for the Vietnamese kings and they have a pretty impresive 'Purple Forbidden City' and along side a citadel with the biggest flag I have seen in my entire life. After that we traveled on an overnight train to Halong Bay. This is where there are huge cliffs rising out of the water and its a classic Vietnam picture. When we hot to Halong Bay is was POURING but luckily it cleared up by the time we had to get on the boat.
The boat we took here was great – it was this old-timey looking one that had the feeling of French Colonial times. We ate an amazing seafood meal and then went to see one of the caves. One unfortunately thing about Vietnam is that they make everything uber-touristy. For example the caves had a light show to 'tart it up' and we went to the Temple of Literature (which is the site of the oldest university) and inside it you can buy tourist crap AND have an ATM there to help you buy the crap.
Halong Bay at night is a very boring and dead place. I think it's cause we were staying near the bay itself and no where near the city. I went with someone in the group to get a massage. In hindsight there were probably several things that should have made me clue in that this wasn't wasn't a totally legit place like the bar in the lobby, that they wanted up to pay upfront and that my massage women was wearing a nightie. (Okay to be fair, Vietnamese people wear what I would consider pajamas out in the street at the time so I just thought it was an indoor extension of that). My masssage room had a massage bed and then in the most creepy interior decoration - two chairs positioned right in front of the with an ashtray inbetween. What a disaster.

The Clever Mr. Phoung

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Got to Hoi An two days ago. It's a very cute town, a historical old district, nice walking/bicycling only streets, river and beach. Basically its got everything a tourist would want. There were a lot of tourists but I wouldn't say the town was overun with them.
The first day I got a bicycle and rode around town which was a great way to cover the city and experience it. The next day I spent with the fantastic my Phoung. Basically he's just this guy who goes around creating his our tour of his fishing village. To be honest the tour was nothing that special – first we went to his village which was a 20 min bike ride. Then he told his history about it (the is recorded history of the village from the 15th century).
After that he took us to the pottary farm which is the other thing his village does (other than fishing) and we got to make clay pots. Then we went fishing and I caught the HUGEST FISHES of my life. They were like 3 inch long. And then we went to his house and ate yummy spring rolls, yellow noodles and fresh fish. The food was authentic and yummy but a bit oily.
After we were done our meal and were ready to leave he wrote us a 'note'; it was basically a computer print out with our names written in. Ours said 'Hello Canadian and Australian'.  There he wrote the usual plesentries but included his complete contract info include email, website, phone etc and asking you to recommend him if anyone you know comes to Vietnam. Then he takes a picture with you and his family and asks you to email the photo (which he will use as recommendations when selling his tour) and also write in his book. Simple things really, but good marketing.
At night we ate at a place overlooking the river. I had rare seseame seared tuna. Not very Vietnamese but DELICIOUS. We hung around town and then went to this beach party. The stars were amazing. It ended with everyone jumping in the pool. Good times.

Snorkling, Nhang Tran and Hoi An

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Yesterday we were in Nhang Tran and our group got a private boat for snorkeling. It was great – we have brand new 'non-toy' snorkeling gear. The corals and the fishes were of a nice varied variety. I would say the best snorkeling I've been at is at Ko Tao in Thailand but this was SECOND BEST.

We also ate a super delicious lunch and swam around for most of the afternoon. After we came back I went and got a massage. It was to date, THE BEST massage I've had in my life. Caught the night train to Dhnang at night and from there to Hoi An. 
The train was super disguto – as in seriously gross. In our cabin there was an extra dude without a ticket hanging around. There was a bit of a scruffule with the other girls and the guy cause they were freaking out. I was like – just chill – this is asia and I got into my bed which was on a higher level and listened to my ipod. That guy left and a new guy arrived in the middle of the night but no one noticed until we woke up. I thought our cabins were bad, but there were actually people sleeping on lawn chairs in the middle of the hallway.
A large part of Hoi An is considered a UNESCO world heritage site. You actually are 'supposed' to buy a ticket to walk around. Don't know if its actually required but I got one to see some of the cool buildings and shrines.  Already spent too much today and its only 12. I bought pearl earrings and a pearl necklace for $16. I'm hoping they are real ones – the woman was burning them to show that there were. I like the size of and style of the pearls – they are my favorite stone. I will show it to someone else local and see what they would pay to get a idea of the price. 
Then I bought some dresses for the hot weather here and also a sleeping bag liner thingy. I actually bought two because its great to have without being as big and bulky as actual sleeping bags. I will ditch the bed sheets I brought from home. I hope ami doesn't mind because they actually looked kindda new. 

Living In Oblivion

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Super funny when you are traveling its really easy to NOT know what’s going on in the world.  I only just found out today that the Polish president died.  I found out about the ‘red shirt’ protests in Bangkok had turned a little violet only as of 10 minutes ago when I checked out Google news. Also apparently Obama is all about talking to the Chineese about making the Yuan more ‘market oriented’. I hope that happens AFTER I’m in China already. Nope – looks like the Yuan hit a 6 month high.
Today we went Chi Chu Tunnels outside of Ho Chi Minh City. Basically these are the tunnels that the Viet Kong (the insurgents to the South Vietnamese) had their guerilla war. The tunnels where interesting – there was a 100 meter one that we could walk down into but I aborted mission 20 meters in because it was seriously way too clastrophobic. Apparently the tunnels have actually been made to twice their original size for tourists. The were originally small so that only the Viet Kong could get inside and not the American soldiers who were much bigger.
Our tour guide for the Chi Chu Tunnels was also another war veteran for the South Vietnamese. He has some interesting stories to tell about how he went on patrols and whole villages would only have women and children during the day because the men were hiding in the forest during the day and they would return at night.
He said that he worked with the Americans for 4 years as a translator and they generally were not well prepared because the American soliders were never trained in jungle warfare. Anyways when the Americans left and the South lost he spent 3 years in a ‘re-education’ camp where he was forced to learn about Communism. So many wars fought.
After we came back I walked past the Reunification Palace (a drab communist-type looking building) and also through ‘district 1′ of the city. I also went to the market and bought a brown belt that will make my onsie dress more palatable. I had to wamoose outta there though because I thought I would end up buying more things which I do not want to spend money on.
Ate delicious Pho for lunch. Just waiting around out hotel with the rest of the peeps until its time to catch our night train to Nhang Tran.

Short Stroll to Vietnam

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I’m in Ho Chi Minh City today. We cross the border yesterday and spent the night in a small(ish) town of Doc Chau. It’s interesting to see the difference between the land border crossing between Thailand and Cambodia vs. Cambodia and Vietnam. The Tha-Cambodia border we used was really busy and teaming with people. The Cambodia-Vietnam one was relatively deserted.The border crossing went smoothly – but it think it’s one thing you really can’t do on your own as there didn’t seem to be any organized tourist or non-tourist buses going across the border. We had a private van the whole way. To smooth things along at the border we all paid $1 to the border patrol.After we headed to Doc Chau. I’m audio-booking Guns, Germs and Steel right now (a great book). Apparently the Mekong Delta is the site of the first humans moving to cultivation of food from hunter-gathers. It’s also one of the most fertile regions in the world. You can really see it when you get into Vietnam. Cambodia is kind of dry and the vegetation is sparse but as soon as you get into Vietnam is gets more lush and green.In the afternoon we took a boat ride on the Mekong river and stopped at a fish farm and a local village. Pretty touristy but nice 2 hour diversion. Then we took motorbikes up to a mountain to watch the sun set. We didn’t ride the motorbikes ourselves (too bad – but probably not a good idea) but the sunset over the lush green rice fields was great.Vietnamese food is generally I feel more diverse and tasty than Cambodian. So far I’ve had a sweet and sour hot pot, cold cofee, and a mango and beef salad with the fresh cold rolls with seafood. Yum! Looking forward to more Vietnamese food.We arrived in Ho Chi Minh city today. Spend the afternoon strolling in the markets. I bought a couple of dresses to keep cool and a much needed hat. Plus a couple of ‘gifts’ for mum. The dresses were actually more expensive than the one I bought in Cambodia which was only $4. I’ve written Sana a postcard which I will drop in the mail later.  I wonder if she ever gets them – I sent here from from Turkey as well but I don’t think she got it.Almost time for dinner! I found an actual HSBC bank today so I took out money charge free. Woohoo!